Medium Format
Medium format refers to the size of your roll of film (or if you’re talking digital, it’s the size of the camera sensor). It really just means that you are shooting on a bigger piece of film than you do with a 35mm camera. The increased size of medium format film means a much larger negative. This will give you finer details and less grain.
Choosing your Right Medium Format Camera
Twin Lens Reflex (TLRS)
TLRs use two objective lens of the same focal length. The photographic objective lens is the one that is used to take the picture. The other lens, called the view lens, is connected to the viewfinder. Most TLRs are fixed focal length, and the more expensive models may incorporate a rudimentary room function. Most TLRs use a leaf shutter system, resulting in high speeds, quiet operation and low shutter vibration. There are also close-up, wide angle and telephoto adapters for TLRs.
Some popular TLRS cameras are: Yashica MAT-124G, Rolleiflex 2.8F, Minolta Autocord and Mamiya C330
Rangefinder
Rangefinder cameras are medium format cameras with a range finder. This negates the waistline, viewing that most TLRs carry. They are also much smaller than TLRs, and allow for easier point and shoot photographs. They tend to have limited focusing ranges, and do not have lenses larger than 180mm or 200mm. Rangefinders are quieter and easier to focus in dim light. They are mostly fixed lens models, but higher range models also provide for interchangeability.
Some popular rangefinder cameras are: Fujica G690, Mamiya 6/7, Bronica RF645, Norita 66 and Pentax 67
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35mm
35mm is an ideal option for beginners and amateurs - and also beloved by professionals. It is cheap, easily available and can be used with a variety of cameras, including SLRs, rangefinders, point and shoot cameras. Whether you are into travel photography, street photography, outdoor photography or portraiture, 35mm is the right format to start with.
The film used for 35mm photography is called 135 film a.k.a 35mm. The quality of the film depends on the brand as well as the speed, contrast and colour, and also depends largely on personal preference.
Full Frame
(Most Popular)
The term 135 format usually refers to a 36×24 mm film format, commonly known as 35mm format. Generally, a full frame sensor can provide a broader dynamic range and better low light/high ISO performance yielding a higher quality image than a half frame.
A 50mm lens is considered a “standard” focal length lens, while any lens with shorter than 50mm focal length falls into the wide angle category, and those with a focal length longer than 50mm are considered telephoto.
Examples of 35mm cameras without interchangeable lenses are point-and-shoot and pinhole
Half Frame
The half-frame camera is a camera using a film format at half the usual exposure format. This means you get portrait images instead of landscape when the camera is held in the normal orientation and you get twice as many images per roll i.e. a 24 frame roll will give 48 half frames.
Choosing your Right 35mm Camera
SLR Camera
Generally, people start with 35mm SLR or point and shoot. Most 35mm film cameras are SLRs. A single-lens reflex means that there is one lens to focus and frame, and then capture the shot. A typical and common SLR would be the Canon AE-1.
Both rangefinders and SLRs are available in automatic as well as manual models. Nearly all modern 35mm cameras have a built-in light meter. This device measures the intensity of the light in a scene and indicates when the two exposures variables the shutter speed and the aperture opening, have been adjusted properly for light and for the film you are using.
Some popular SLR cameras are: Olympus OM-1, Minolta X-700, Nikon FM2, Canon AE-1, Pentax K1000 and Nikon F6
Rangefinder
The simplest, smallest, and usually least expensive 35mm cameras are the rangefinder, often called compacts. Rangefinder cameras offer an advantage over a number of others out there though with their low profile looks. They let a photographer be able to see what's going to move into the frame and they also make zone focusing and getting a subject/scene perfectly in focus very simple. As such, most rangefinders come with fixed lens.
Some popular rangefinder cameras are: Yashica Electro 35 Series, Leica M3, Canon VI-L/VI-T, Nikon S2 and Contax IIa/IIIa
Point and Shoot
Compact Cameras / Point and Shoot camera is basically a basic SLR level camera for passionate non-professional photographers. It has simple functions compared to professional cameras. Most such SLR camera has autofocus feature. Which automatically sets the exposure, aperture and shutter speed. It is usually used for taking snapshots in various functions, events, etc.
Some popular P&S cameras are: Contax T-series, Yashica T5, Olympus Mju series, Canon Autoboy and Pentax Espio Series
Choosing your Own Film
Film speed, also known as ISO, is the sensitivity rating of the film. A films speed will determine its sensitivity to light – low ISO number will basically need more light to get the right exposure than a high ISO number, which will need less.
Films classed as a low-speed range from 20 to 200 ISO. You get finer grain with low-speed films. The lower the ISO number, the finer the grain.
High-speed or fast, films range from 400 to 3200 ISO. These films give you a lot more flexibility on overcast days and in low light situations. Also, they are a good choice if you’re shooting fast-moving subjects. You get more noticeable grain with fast films.
A good place to start is an ISO of 400 for either black and white or colour. It’s versatile by nature and will allow you to shoot in a range of lighting conditions.
Push and Pull Film
Pushing or pulling film is when you rate your film at a different speed from the one written on the box. Then, you compensate for the difference when you develop it. Pushing will mean giving the film a higher rating and pulling a lower rating.
Refer here for more information about push and pull film.
Developing your Own Film
If you're just starting with film photography or are interested in it, processing your own film can seem a bit daunting, but it's really not that hard, especially with black and white film. It seems like a lot to purchase at first, but remember that most of the accessories are cheap and the chemicals will last you a while. The process itself is fairly straightforward and can be rather rewarding, as you get to work with your hands and watch the images appear before your eyes.
Once you're done, you can either proceed to making prints or scan the negatives into your computer.
Things you need to get started:
- Developer
- Stop Bath
- Fixer
- Wetting Agent
- Developing Tank
- Changing Bag
- Thermometer
- Storage Bottles
- Film Opener
- Scissors
Refer to the massive development chart for the
developing time of your film rolls here.
